SEVILLE ORANGE MARMALADE

Steps:

• Sliced fruit method
• Scrub the oranges, remove the buttons at the top of the fruit, then cut in half. Squeeze out the juice and keep to one side. Using a sharp knife, slice the peel, pith and all, into thin, medium, or chunky shreds, according to your preference. Put the sliced peel into a bowl with the orange juice and cover with 10 cups of water. Let soak overnight or for up to 24 hours.
• Transfer the whole mixture to a preserving pan, bring to a boil, then simmer slowly, covered, until the peel is tender. This should take approximately 2 hours, by which time the contents of the pan will have reduced by about one-third.
• Stir in the lemon juice and sugar. Bring the marmalade to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Boil rapidly until the setting point is reached (see p. 41), 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let cool for 8 to 10 minutes-a little longer if the peel is in very chunky pieces-then stir gently to disperse any scum. Pour into warm, sterilized jars and seal immediately (see pp. 21-22). Use within 2 years.
• Whole fruit method
• Scrub the oranges, remove the buttons at the top, and put the whole oranges into a preserving pan with 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the orange skins are tender and can be pierced easily with a fork.
• When cool enough to handle, take the oranges out. Measure and keep the cooking water-you should have about 7 cups. Bring it up to this amount with more water if you have less, or boil to reduce if you have more.
• Cut the oranges in half and remove the seeds with a fork, flicking them into a bowl. Strain any juice from the seeds back into the cooking water, then discard the seeds.
• Meanwhile, cut up the orange peel and flesh into thick, medium, or thin shreds. Put the cut-up fruit into the strained cooking liquid. Add the lemon juice and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil and boil rapidly until the setting point is reached (see p. 41), 10 to 15 minutes.
• Let cool for 10 to 12 minutes-a little longer if you've cut the peel into very chunky pieces-then stir gently to disperse any scum. Pour into warm, sterilized jars and seal immediately (see pp. 21-22). Use within 2 years.
• Variations
• You can use both methods for making many other delicious marmalades:
• Lemon marmalade with honey
• Use 2 1/4 pounds of lemons instead of oranges, and omit the extra lemon juice. Replace 1 1/4 cups of the sugar with 3/4 cup of honey, adding it at the same time.
• Three-fruit marmalade
• Use a mixture of grapefruit, lemons, and sweet oranges to make a total of 2 1/4 pounds of fruit.
• Ruby red marmalade
• Both pink grapefruit and blood oranges make wonderful marmalades, though I prefer to use the sliced fruit method for these fruits. Add 3 tablespoons of lemon juice to every pound of fruit.
• Seville and ginger marmalade
• Replace 1 1/4 cups of the sugar with 9 ounces of chopped crystallized ginger, adding it along with the sugar.
• Whiskey marmalade
• Add 1/4 cup of whiskey to the marmalade at the end of cooking.
• P.S.
• Don't limit marmalade to the breakfast table, for its traits and qualities can be well used in other culinary ways. I like to replace candied peel in fruitcakes with a tablespoonful or two of marmalade, and I always add some to my Christmas mincemeat (p. 74). Marmalade makes a marvelous glaze for oven-baked ham, as well as sweet-and-sour chicken or pork dishes. Best of all, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls will make a glorious golden topping for a good old-fashioned steamed pudding.
• P.P.S.
• For generations, marmalade makers have cooked up the mass of seeds found inside citrus fruits in the belief that they are full of pectin. However, most of the pectin is actually found in the citrus peel, and I rely purely on this for the setting power in my marmalades.