GOOSE PHO

Steps:

• Heat oven to 375 degrees. Using a heavy cleaver or large chef's knife, whack the feet into a few pieces, which will help the collagen to render while cooking. Place the feet, carcasses and bones, if using them, on a baking sheet or in a large roasting pan. If necessary, cut carcasses into smaller pieces so everything fits in the pan. Roast, turning the bones after about 30 minutes, until dark brown, at least 45 minutes or up to 1 1/2 hours. Do not allow the bones to burn. Transfer the bones to a large stockpot and discard the rendered fat and juices.
• Heat a large heavy skillet over high. Cook the onion and ginger cut-side down in the dry skillet until charred and dark brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to the stockpot.
• Fill the pot with water, leaving about 2 inches of space at the top. Bring it to a steady simmer over medium-high, then reduce the heat so that only one or two bubbles come to the surface every second or so. Let simmer very gently, occasionally skimming foam from the top, for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours. The longer you let it go, the more flavor will be extracted.
• Strain the broth through a fine-mesh chinois into another large pot and discard the solids. Allow the broth to settle for a few minutes, then skim the fat and scum from the top. Wipe out the stockpot, then return the broth to the stockpot and bring it to a steady simmer over medium-low, continuing to skim the top of the broth until it has reached the desired clarity, about 10 or 15 minutes.
• For a clearer broth, in a small bowl, whisk the egg whites together until foamy. While the broth is at a very slow simmer, gently pour the whites into the broth and allow the mixture to cook, undisturbed. Small particles will stick to the whites as they cook, and the egg whites will form a raft that can be skimmed out once firm, about 10 minutes. If there are small pieces of egg white left behind, strain the broth again through the chinois.
• Add the spices to the stockpot with the broth. You can wrap them together in a piece of cheesecloth and tie tightly with kitchen string, or simply toss them directly into the pot. Simmer until the broth is fragrant, about 1 hour. (Leaving the spices in for an extended period can overwhelm the broth.) Remove spice bag or strain the broth again through the chinois, discarding the spices.
• Add the sugar, fish sauce and MSG, if using, to the broth to taste, and season with salt.
• Prepare the rice noodles according to package instructions. To serve, divide noodles among 6 large bowls. Top with sliced meat, if using, and pour the hot broth over the meat. Serve with a platter of toppings and garnishes to pass at the table.