CHICKEN WITH RIESLING

Steps:

• Put the butter in a skillet large enough to hold the chicken and turn the heat to medium. Add the onions, a large pinch of salt, and some pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften completely and begin to melt into a soft mass, about 20 minutes.
• Add 1 1/2 cups of the wine and let it bubble away for a minute, then tuck the chicken pieces among the onions; sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to low and cover the pan.
• Cook, turning the chicken pieces once or twice, for 40 to 60 minutes, or until the chicken is very tender (the meat on the drumsticks will begin to loosen from the bone). If the dish appears to be drying out at any point, add the remaining wine.
• Serve the chicken, spooning the onions and their liquid over it.
• Variations
• Cook the onions for 10 minutes or so longer before adding the wine, until they darken in color and become even softer.
• While the onions are cooking, brown the chicken by putting it, skin side up, in a 500°F oven for about 20 minutes. When you add the chicken to the onions, include some of its juice.
• Tuck a couple of bay leaves and/or a few sprigs of fresh thyme in among the onions after they've begun to soften.
• Sauté about 1/4 pound of bacon or salt pork cut into 1/2-inch chunks in the pan before adding the onions.
• Cook about 1/2 pound of sliced mushrooms (or an ounce or two of dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted) along with the onions.
• Cook 1 tablespoon or more of chopped garlic with the onions.
• After cooking, puree the onions and their liquid in a blender for a cream like sauce; use it to top the chicken.