BASIC BROWN STOCK

Steps:

• Roast bones and vegetables Heat oven to 400°F. Arrange bones and beef in a single layer in a large heavy roasting pan. Drizzle with the oil and turn to coat. Roast, turning once and stirring often for even browning, until beginning to brown, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, add tomato paste, and stir to combine. Cook over medium heat for about 30 seconds (to let it brown a little, which cooks out some of the acidity and intensifies the sweetness), then add vegetables, stirring well. Return to oven and roast until vegetables are browned and tender and bones are deeply browned, about 40 minutes.
• Deglaze pan Transfer bones and vegetables to a large stockpot, then spoon off fat from roasting pan and discard. Set the pan over two burners. Add the water or wine and bring to a boil, scraping up any brown bits from bottom with a wooden spoon fig. 1.1, boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Pour everything into the stockpot.
• Make stock Add enough water (about 6 quarts) to stockpot to cover bones and vegetables by 2 inches. Bring to just under a boil, then reduce heat to a bare simmer (bubbles should just gently break at the surface). Add herbs and peppercorns and very gently simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 8 hours, adding more water as necessary to keep everything submerged.
• Strain stock Carefully pour stock through a fine sieve (do not press on solids) into a large heatproof bowl or another stockpot and discard solids. Stock will be dark brown. Skim off fat if using immediately, or let cool completely (in an ice-water bath, if desired) before transferring to airtight containers. Refrigerate at least 8 hours to allow the fat to accumulate at the top; lift off and discard fat before using or storing. Brown stock and its variations can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months; thaw completely in the refrigerator before using.
• BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
• Follow the above recipe to roast the flavor base and deglaze the pan using 5 pounds chicken parts (backs, necks, and wings) in place of veal and beef; omit garlic and use only 1 tablespoon tomato paste. Then make stock, adding enough water to cover everything by about 1 inch (about 3 quarts). Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Add 1 dried bay leaf and 1 teaspoon peppercorns and cook 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, skimming surface frequently. Strain, chill, and store as directed above. Makes 2 1/2 quarts.